Carmel Beach Surfing Tips from A Local Expert

Almost 30 years of local surfing experience have provided our expert with a few insights. First being, you can’t sustain that many years of local camaraderie and respect by shouting the area’s secrets from the wave-tops, or through a travel guide. Luckily for us, our anonymous expert has a soft spot for surf-happy visitors, and wants you to have the best experience possible, so he answered all of our questions — even the silly ones.

Katie: First of all, Mr. Surfer, thanks for helping us out — your sport can be a little intimidating to novices. Why don’t we start off with an obvious question; why is Carmel Beach your favorite surf-spot?

Mr. Surfer: Carmel is not only a great surf spot it is one of the most scenic on the coast. Where else can you surf in crystal clear, emerald green to sapphire blue, albeit freezing cold water while looking at one of the most prestigious golf courses in America and million dollar mansions, where people from all over the world come to walk the beach alongside movie stars and surfer dads? It’s great!!! It’s a short paddle usually, but it can be brutally challenging and unforgiving. The waves can be a dredging pipe or soft fishable mush balls!

K: Is there a section of the beach that’s better than others, or an optimal time of day to hit the waves?

Mr. Surfer: At Carmel Beach it’s all about timing. It is a fickle beach break that is greatly affected by tide, wave duration, sand bar formation and swell direction. The wave and water condition can change so rapidly that you’ll see the same guys checking it out every hour, waiting for the perfect time to jump in before the conditions turn again. Typically the south end of the beach by 13th Street has softer, mellower waves (except out at the point which rarely breaks and is only surfable after about 15 feet!), while 4th to 8th Street has hollower waves with more rips.

I like mornings, no wind, no crowds, usually glassy. Winter is bigger, summer is smaller. Less wind in the morning, typicall NW winds in the afternoon. Just remember that a lot of the locals that surf at Carmel have been doing so for multiple generations and [we] tend to get a little cranky when people crowd the lineup. So if you are new to the area or are here for the weekend, come on out, but show RESPECT, a little goes a long ways. Stay on the outside of the pack for a few waves, talk it up a bit, smile, if someone goes agro on you, shrug it off!

K: Are there any safety issues that pertain specifically to Carmel Beach?

Mr. Surfer: Lots of rips, undulating bottom conditions, not many rocks except at the far ends of the beach, bat rays in the summer (shuffle your feet).

K: What are ideal surf conditions? How do you gauge these conditions before you head down to the beach?

Mr Surfer: No wind, 6-8 almond shaped barrels, that’s perfect Carmel. Check out the Carmel Clam Cam, live look at 4th Street. Check the tide book, surf upcoming or outgoing tide.  Shorter wave interval is better.

K: What type of board do you prefer? Where should our visitors look for a board?

Mr. Surfer: Boards are like golf clubs, you have different ones for different waves and conditions. If the waves are 2-3 feet, kinda mushy, I’ll take out my 9′ longboard or my 5′6″ retro fish. If it is bigger and hollower, I’ll choose a 6′5″-7′ pintail. Whatever suits the wave. Sunshine [Freestyle] Surf Shop in Monterey is great! Good selection, local owners, knowledgable about local conditions and spots. In Carmel, there is Liquid Surf Shop, also locally owned.

K: How cold is the water?

Mr. Surfer: Typically in the winter 48-52 degrees, summer warms up into the high 50’s. Occasionally you can go out in trunks, but not for very long!

K: In that case, could you explain appropriate surf-attire?

Mr. Surfer: In the winter a 4-3 wetsuit, booties and hood. Summer a 4-3 wetsuit, booties and a hood in the morning! You can go out in trunks whenever, but you won’t be out that long!

K: Could you explain local surfing etiquette?

Mr. Surfer: I only have a couple of personal rules when surfing a new break: respect the other guys like you would want to be respected at your home break, especially if it is a well known place. Stay off the main peak for a bit, judge the situation, often there is a spot just as good a few yards down. Don’t snake anybody (cut anyone off). If you do make a mistake, apologize immediately even if it is not your fault, who wants to sit out in the water with a bad attitude and ten guys staring you down. Pay it forward.

K: Carmel seems particularly welcoming to newcomers, as long as they’re respectful, but it’s not this friendly everywhere. What can you tell me about “localism” in other cities?

Mr. Surfer: There are places where “localism” is bad, usually places that have been exploited and have become tourist areas, highly populated areas and places where surfing hasn’t always been a part of the local culture. Sometimes being an out-of-towner can have severe penalities, broken windshields, slashed tires, keyed paint, broken nose, broken bones, etc., but these are extreme cases that Hollywood has promoted. Just keep your wits about you and be respectful.

K: Any other tips that might help someone who’s vacationing in Carmel and hoping to try out surfing? Should they try body-boarding first? Skimboarding?

Mr. Surfer: Carmel is a fun beach, but it can be dangerous, the beach once in the water drops off sharply which means the waves come in and break fast in shallow water. Riptides and currents are always in play. Body surfing at Carmel is great! Skimboarding is also a lot of fun especially at low tide when there is a lot of beach for some great sliding fun.

K: What’s your favorite way to fuel up before you hit the surf?

Mr. Surfer: For pre-surf coffee try *The Carmel Roasting Company on Ocean Ave. Great food at *The Little Swiss Cafe on 6th and Delores is incredible and the owner is a surfer!

K: Thanks, Mr. Surfer!

* We reviewed Mr. Surfer’s suggested eats and other local favorites for 8 Reasons to Rise and Shine for Carmel’s Best Breakfasts — check them out and let us know what you think, and happy surfing, visitors!